Climbing Capanna Margherita summit

Climbing Capanna Margherita 4554m – Gnifetti Regular Route

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    All about the Climbing Capanna Margherita 4554m – Gnifetti Regular Route.

    Climbing Capanna Margherita 4554m – Gnifetti Regular Route

    The most classic and popular ascent of Monte Rosa. Because of its history, its location and its panorama, the “Margherita” is, for sure, one of the most aspired ascent by mountain lovers. The ascent goes along a magnificent glacial environment; at the Colle del Lys you will be touched by the first sunrays and the view is captured by a multitude of greats peaks, Matterhorn included.

    You have to know

    • Period: from  June to September
    • Accommodation: Gnifetti hut CAI (3647m) with half board service.
    • Meeting point: At 14:00 p.m. in the office in Staffal (Hotel Nordend near to the bar).
    • Requirements: Easy but long ascent in high altitude; achievable to all hikers in a good shape and with already a previous experience in altitude to optimize the acclimatization.
    • Equipment: See the equipment list in FAQ’s section.
    • Weather: In the high mountains, even in summer, there could be extreme weather conditions. Three/four days before the tour/trip, we will check the weather forecast in the area, and we will inform you about it!
    • Leading Guide: Mountain Guide or Aspirant Mountain Guide. Shortly before the tour, you will get the phone number of the guide. For all other questions please contact us.

    Services and Prices

    Mountain Guide or Aspirant IFMGA for two days.

    • 1 pax: €495.00 per person
    • 2 pax: €280.00 per person
    • 3 pax: €200.00 per person
    • 4 pax: €160.00 per person
    • 5 pax: €140.00 per person

    Helpful for preparation

    • Apparel / Clothing: We recommend functional clothing/layering principle so you can react to the different temperatures.
    • Boots: Waterproof mountaineering/trekking boots suitable for crampons.
    • Lunch: Please take some snacks and drinks with you. At the Margherita hut if time allow us we can stop for some warm food.
    • Back pack: Do not put too many things! You will be amazed how few things you need. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. At the end you have to carry your back pack. We recommend a back pack with 30-40L.
    • Maps: Monte Rosa – Alte valli d’Ayas e del Lys L’Escursionista | ESC08 | 1:25000 | Swisstopo Combination No. 25-15 Zermatt-Gornergrat 1:25000 | Swisstopo – No. 294 Gressoney 1:50000

    For any further questions…

    We are happy to help you for any further questions. Please contact our office. The equipment list is in the FAQ’s section.

    The tour package inclusions and exclusions at a glance
    What is included in this tour?Items that are included in the cost of tour price.
    • Services of IFMGA Mountain Guide for two days
    • Liability insurance
    • Group gear and Spare equipment (see the list in FAQs section)
    What is not included in this tour?Items that are not included in the cost of tour price.
    • Transport, tolls and petrol to the meeting point
    • Overnight stay in the hut in HB also for the mountain guide
    • Cable car to Punta Indren and back
    • Food and drinks
    • Travel expenses
    • Mountaineering equipment
    • Personal equipment (see the list in FAQs section)
    • The guides expenses that are split between the group members
    • Any other expenses
    1. Day 1 Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00 p.m.

      Meeting with the guide in Staffal around 14:00p.m. – equipment check. We will take the cable car up to Punta Indren. From there we easily hike up to the Gnifetti hut, where we overnight.
      Up 1:00 hours – 370m

    2. Day 2 Climbing Punta Gnifetti 4554m

      Departure around 5:00 depending on the period of the year. We hike up along the Lys Glacier up to the Lys Pass (4260m), where normally we stop to eat and drink and to admire the great view. In front of us the second part of the ascent with the Margherita hut looking still quite far. After a short descent we traverse below the Parrotspitze and we start the last ascent to the Colle Gnifetti. From here the last effort to climb the infamous “rivetto” and finally you stand on the balcony of the hut! The descent is along the same itinerary.
      Up 3:30/4:30 hours 950m – Down 3 hours 1300m

    Gnifetti hut - CAI 3647m

    At the head of the glacial basin of Lys, at a height of 3647m on the Garstlet glacier, Capanna Gnifetti has 176 sleeping places, in heated rooms of 6 beds (bunk beds) and 4 larger room with 10/15 beds.
    There are shared bathrooms, hot  showers ( 1 token € 4 for about three minutes, working only in summer, not in spring), electric lighting, SOS radio rescue and a winter room which is open when the hut is closed.
    Capanna Gnifetti is the base for all excursions on Mont Rosa. It is the historical stopover for more challenging climbs, for the ascent to Capanna Margherita and high altitude cross-overs.

    The route to the refuge is on a glacier trail of about 1 and a half hour walking, that starts from the new station of the cableway Passo Salati-Indren at 3275m above see level, with a difference in height of 372 m. Indren can be reached with the Monterosaski lift system from Alagna or Gressoney La Trinité.

    • Open: from mid June to mid September
    • Altitude: 3647m
    • Number guests: 176 – In winter: yes – 4 beds in the winter room
    • Winter room open only from 30/9 to 28/02
    • GPS: 45° 53′ 58″ N, 7° 51′ 0″ E
    The tour package inclusions and exclusions at a glance.
    Included in the Refuge cost.Usually 80 euros half board accomodation
    • Overnight stay
    • Breakfast buffet sweet & salty
    • Dinner (2 first courses, 1 second course with side dish, bread and dessert)
    • Tea thermos
    • Disposable sleeping bag liner
    Not included in the Refuge costYou can purchase everything you need at the Refuge
    • Shower
    • Drinking water
    • Any other food or drinks
    • Any other expenses
    • Technical equipment (these items can be rented): harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, mountaineering boots.
    • Personal equipment: 30 litre backpack, 1 litre thermos, provisions (energy bars, chocolate, dried fruit, sandwiches), first aid kit, sun glasses (protection factor 3 or 4), goggles, gore-tex jacket and overpants, windstopper vest, gaiters, mountain pants, fleece jacket, breathable base layers, lightweight gloves, thick gloves, warm hat, bandana, sun screen factor 50.
    • For the huts: sleeping bag liner, change of socks, headtorch and spare batteries, mountaineering club membership, toothbrush & toothpaste, small towel, wipes.

    You can download the complete equipment list here.

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