2 Day
Advanced
2 people
English, Italian
Climbing Grossglockner Studlgrat Ridge will be most exciting way to get on top of Austria’s highest peak.
Situated in the upper Tauern, Grossglockner lies on the border between the Austrian Länder of Tyrol, Salzburg and Carinthia. With its 3789m altitude it is also condidered, by mountaineers, the most beautiful.
The South ridge was climbed for the first time since first ascent J. Kerer u. Fr. Groder in 1864 owes his name to Johann Stüdl, the ‘Lord of the Glockner’. He was a far-away build the shelter that bears his name again in 1868 and to receive honorary citizenship of Kals in 1870.
Climbing the highest peak of Austria is an unforgettable mountaineering experience and the opportunity to follow the historical routes of the Alpine arc. The Studlgrat Ridge will give you the chance to ride one of the most exciting routes among the Giants of the Alps.
On the first day, we will reach the Stüdlhütte, a refuge famous also for the incredible variety, abundance and quality of the dishes that the manager prepares for dinner. After the binge, we will stay overnight in the comfortable bunks of the shelter.
The next day we will climb towards the Teischnitzkees glacier, bypassing the Luisenkopf clockwise until it reaches the beginning of the Stüdlgrat. From here along a fantastic route that goes up, with easy climbing and some more challenging passages, the obvious and panoramic ridge up to the summit cross.
The descent will follow the route of the Normal Route along the East Ridge to the Erzherzog-Johann-Hutte and then again to the Stüdlhütte and then follow the path of the previous day.
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III°+ grade, exposed and aerial rock and snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
The leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide.
We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice ace, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 30-35 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
This is a climb of high technical and overall commitment. In case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.
Meeting at the Lucknerhaus car park, briefing and equipment check. Ascent to the Stüdlhütte.
Climb to the top of the GrossGlockner along the Stüdlgrat. Descent and return.
Technical equipment (these items can be rented): harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, mountaineering boots. Personal equipment: 30 litre backpack, 1 litre thermos, provisions (energy bars, chocolate, dried fruit, sandwiches), first aid kit, sun glasses (protection factor 3 or 4), goggles, gore-tex jacket and overpants, windstopper vest, gaiters, mountain pants, fleece jacket, breathable base layers, lightweight gloves, thick gloves, warm hat, bandana, sun screen factor 50. For the huts: sleeping bag liner, change of socks, headtorch and spare batteries, mountaineering club membership, toothbrush & toothpaste, small towel, wipes.
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required. Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III° grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
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