3 Days
Easy
5 people
English, Français, Italian
Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe) is the fourth highest peak of the Monte Rosa massif with his 4556m, and is the peak where the Capanna Margherita (Europe highest Hut) stands, dominating the enormous South Face and a step behind the Himalayan East Face.
With our guided climb to Punta Gnifetti and the 3 days 3x4000m Peaks program, you will have the opportunity to visit Capanna Margherita and not only, to climb other two 4000m peaks.
Depending on the number of participants and the snow/ice condition, you will be able to climb two of these 4000m peaks: Zumstein, Parrotspitze, Ludvighohe, Corno Nero, Balmenhorn, Pyramide Vincent or Punta Giordani.
Punta Gnifetti is the most exciting high-altitude experience that a mountaineer at the beginning of his career can undertake in the Monte Rosa massif.
Monte Rosa, with its innumerable peaks over 4000 meters, will be the setting for these three days of mountaineering in the heart of the Alps.
Our IFMGA Guides will take care of all climb details, maximizing safety and fun.
If you are a mountaineer who is discovering the peaks of the giants of the Alps, but you don’t want to undertake technically difficult climbs, this is definitely the climb for you! On the first day we will go up to the Gnifetti refuge where we will spend the night. On the second day, at dawn, we will leave on a roped team across the suggestive Monte Rosa glacier. Surrounded by the 4000 meters of the massif, such as the Lyskamm, the Pyramid Vincent, the Corno Nero and several others, you will reach the Colle del Lys, from where you will see Capanna Margherita. From here, with another hour and a half of climbing, you will reach the highest refuge in Europe!
The ascent to Punta Gnifetti (Signalkuppe) is easy technically. Despite this, good physical fitness and altitude training are required. To guarantee the ascent we require the ability to face excursions of at least 1400m with ease, so as not to have problems on the day of the ascent. The high altitude can affect the performance of the climbers, having some experience at altitude or good acclimatization will make the ascent easier.
The leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide or Aspirant Mountain Guide.
We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice axe, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 35-40 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
Although it is a climb of easy technical commitment, in case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.
Meeting with the guide in Staffal or Alagna at cable car office at 8:30 am. – briefing. With the lift system we arrive Indren Pass. From here we start climbing Punta Giordani, a nice entry level 4000er good for warm up! After the summit we start the descent towards the Gnifetti Hut or Mantova Hut. We overnight in the hut. Up 3:30/4:00 hours – 800m to the summit + 350 to the Hut
Departure around 4:30 depending on the period of the year. At the beginning the glacier is not too steep and it helps us to warm up the legs. We easily arrive at the beginning of a steep part that goes up to the Colle Vincent. Arrived at that col we continue up to Col du Lys where you'll start to have a great view on the Monte Rosa Giants, Matterhorn and Swiss Giants. From there in 1h we reach Capanna Gnifetti and Punta Gnifetti where a good Pizza awaits for you! The descent goes along the same itinerary down to Gnifetti Hut for overnight. Up 4:00/4:30 hours 950m – Down 2:30 hours 950m
Departure around 4:30 depending on the period of the year. At the beginning the glacier is not too steep and it helps us to warm up the legs. We easily arrive at the beginning of a steep part that goes up to the Colle Vincent. Arrived at that col we climb up to Piramide Vincent from where you'll have an amazing view of the whole South face of the Monte Rosa. From here we start go down and after! Up 3:00 hours 600m – Down 2:30 hours 1000m
The ascent to Capanna Margherita is easy technically. Despite this, good physical fitness and altitude training are required. To guarantee the ascent we require the ability to face excursions of at least 1400m with ease, so as not to have problems on the day of the ascent. The high altitude can affect the performance of the climbers, having some experience at altitude or good acclimatization will make the ascent easier.
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