2 Days
Advanced
2 people
English, Français, Italian
Climbing Breithorn traverse is the perfect trip for those experienced mountaineers who want to try their hand at a long and pleasant climb, trampling 5 peaks above 4000m, including Pollux.
The whole traverse of this ridge can be easily considered one of the nicest climbing among the the Monte Rosa Group. Thanks to the variety of the terrain and the quality of the climbing it can satisfy even the most demanding mountaineer.
Monte Rosa, with its innumerable peaks over 4000 meters, will be the setting for these two days of mountaineering in the heart of the Alps.
Our IFMGA Guides will take care of all climb details, maximizing safety and fun.
During the first day, after taking the cable car towards the Plateau Rosa, we will start the tour by crossing the glacier and climbing the Polluce ridge, a fun snow ridge and mixed with aided passages, resulting in an excellent warm-up. Night at the Guide d’Ayas hut.
The next day, at dawn, we will begin the ascent towards the Breithorn crest and with exciting climbing, we will cross the entire ridge, always above 4000m.
The breathtaking panorama will accompany us throughout the climb, together with exposed passages and rock gendarmes.
We will finish the climb descending from the Western Breithorn to take the cable car back to Cervinia.
The ascent can also be carried out by sleeping at the Cervino Guide, or starting from Champoluc.
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III° grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
The leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide
We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice ace, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 30-35 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.
This is a climb of high technical and overall commitment. In case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.
Meeting in Cervinia at 7:30 am. – briefing. We will take the cable car up to Plateau Rosa. From there we hike up along the ski piste to the Colle del Breithorn. Here we traverse the upper part of the Verra Glacier to the base of the S ridge of Pollux. We climb this nice peak (4091m). The descent is along the same itinerary; from the base of the ridge we easily walk down to the Guide d’Ayas hut where we overnight. Up 4:00 hours 750m – Down 2:00 hours 700m
Departure around 5:00 am. depending on the period of the year. We easily walk to the base of the Roccia Nera where the Rossi e Volante bivouac is. From here we climb the steep slope until the top of the Roccia Nera, our first summit of the day. Here the proper Breithorn ridge starts; along this traverse we cross the summits of Breithorn twin (4106 m), Breithorn East (4141 m), Breithorn Central (4160 m) and finally the Breithorn West (4165 m). During the traverse we enjoy some snow ridges, few abseiling and good rock climbing. From the summit of Breithorn West we follow the easy and busy regular route back to Plateau Rosa . Up 6-7 hours 900m – Down 2:00 hours 700m
Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required. Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to II-III grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.
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