Dufourspitze 4632m, Italian Route

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Monte Rosa, Italy - Switzerland
From: €1.150,00
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Duration

2 Days

Difficulty

Advanced

Group Size

1 person

Languages

English, Français, Italian

About this activity

Dufourspitze Italian Route 4634m

Climbing Dufourspitze Italian Route will take you to another level of experience on one of the most beautiful peaks in the Alps.

Dufourspitze, standing at an impressive 4,634 meters, reigns as the highest peak in Switzerland and the second highest in the entire Alps. This majestic summit graces the Monte Rosa massif, an ice-covered mountain range nestled in the heart of the Pennine Alps near the Italian border. The Italian regular route along the SE ridge beckons mountaineers with its blend of rock, snow, and ice terrain.

Climbing the highest peak of the Monte Rosa Massif is an unforgettable mountaineering experience. The Italian Route through the South-East Ridge will give you the chance to ride one of the most exciting routes among the Giants of the Alps.

Highlights

  • Trip duration: 2 Day
  • Period: from June to September
  • Accommodation: Gnifetti or Mantova hut with HB service
  • Meeting point: Staffal (Gressoney) or Alagna, cable car office
  • Skill level: advanced mountaineer
  • Fitness level: advanced
  • Trip level: advanced
  • Equipment: see the equipment list in FAQ’s section
  • Trip duration: 2 Days. Second day will be a big day out.

Description

Climbing Dufourspitze via the Italian South East Ridge is an experience that should be savored down to the last metre.

On the first day we will go up to the Gnifetti hut (or to the Mantova refuge) where we will stay overnight. On the second day we will leave very early (3:00-4:00 am) and after a long approach through the Monte Rosa glaciers we will begin our climb to the Italian Normal Route.

Climbing on excellent granite up to grade II-III, mixed passages, exposed and airy snowy ridges will take you to the second, but no less beautiful, peak of the Alps. Fun is guaranteed.

Prerequisites

Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III° grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.

Prices and availability

The leading Guide is a fully certified IFMGA Mountain Guide.

  • 1 pax: €1150

Clothing and equipment

We recommend high altitude, summer mountaineering clothing. Mountaineering boots suitable for crampons. Harness, crampons, ice ace, helmet, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed. Try to carry backpack as light as possible. Functional clothing for the day and a change shirt for the hut is usually enough. We suggest a 30-35 lt. backpack. Please take some snacks and drinks with you.

Notes

This is a climb of high technical and overall commitment. In case you want to undertake the climb, we recommend that you contact us and discuss the details and the program with our guides before the expedition.

Included/Excluded

  • Services of IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • Liability insurance
  • Group gear and Spare equipment
  • Transport, tolls and petrol to the meeting point
  • Overnight stay in Gnifetti hut in Half Board service also for the mountain guide
  • Cable car to Indren and back
  • Food and drinks not included in the HB service
  • Mountaineering equipment (see the list in FAQs section)
  • The guides expenses that are split between the group members
  • Any other expenses not mentioned

Optional Extras

  • Special price on mountaineering equipment rental

Itinerary

Meeting with the guide based on personal agreement, usually 14:00-14:30 in Staffal. Check equipment. We take three cable cars up to Punta Indren 3269 m. From here begins our ascent to the Gnifetti hut 3647m where we spend the night.

Breakfast and early Departure.

According with the weather and glacier conditions the Guide will agree with the best time to start. Equipped from the outset with mountaineering equipment, we begin our ascent on the track that takes us along the Lys glacier towards Capanna Margherita 4554 m.  From here we first climb the Zumsteinspitze 4563 m and then begin the exposed descent to the Grenzsattel. We follow the ridge and climb over rock (II-III) and snow to the Grenzgipfel 4618m. From the Grenzgipfel we climb mostly on rock (III) crossing the ridge to the summit of the Dufourspitze 4634m. On the return we follow the same route. Depending on the timing, we can make a nice stop at the Rifugio Gnifetti and then return to the valley by cable car.

Frequently asked questions

  • Technical equipment (these items can be rented): harness, helmet, ice axe, crampons, mountaineering boots, sling and a carabiner, poles if needed.
  • Personal equipment: 35-40 litre backpack, 1 litre thermos, provisions (energy bars, chocolate, dried fruit, sandwiches), first aid kit, sun glasses (protection factor 3 or 4), goggles, gore-tex jacket and overpants, windstopper vest, gaiters, mountain pants, fleece jacket, breathable base layers, lightweight gloves, thick gloves, warm hat, bandana, sun screen factor 50.
  • For the huts: sleeping bag liner, change of socks, headtorch and spare batteries, mountaineering club membership, toothbrush & toothpaste, small towel, wipes.

Excellent physical preparation and experience in mountaineering ascents of this kind are required.
Long approaches, technical climbing on rock and mixed up to III° grade, exposed and aerial snow ridges, glacier crossings and long returns are the characteristics of this climb. Having these skills will allow you to fully enjoy this exciting climb.

Activity's Location

Monte Rosa, Italy - Switzerland
From: €1.150,00

    Owner

    spen oliver

    Member Since 2023

    Information Contact

    Email

    info@horizonadventures.it

    Phone

    +39 334 2904696

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